The first step to becoming a better rider is to recognise the mistakes. This is 15 of the most common ones and how you can avoid them.
MISTAKE: HOLDING TOO TIGHT/BEING TOO TENSE
There's no need for a leotard or a Yoga class, but to be fast, smooth, safe and focused on a bike you need to be relaxed. Remember the time you got buzzed by a rapid rider passing you? When the red mist descended you got more than angry, you got tense. You may have felt fast because your riding was erratic, but you didn't go faster. He got farther and farther away. Relax and start to flow and you're more likely to reel him in, even if you feel like you are going slower. Tensing up is an all too natural response. Almost overshoot a corner and the fear makes arms and legs stiffen. Your rigidity hampers the movement of your bike's suspension (you are effectively fighting back against its movement) which makes the risk of you losing control even greater. You fear this, get even more tense and, if you don't break the cycle, you'll end up breaking your motorcycle. You may feel this doesn't apply to you. To find out, do this simple test. Find yourself a corner and, while you ride round it, try waggling your elbows up and down. If doing this " funky chicken " upsets your bike, you are holding too tight. Holding on too hard also increases your risk of having a tankslapper.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
Monday, August 27, 2007
Did you realize what mistakes you've done today? (Part 1)
The first step to becoming a better rider is to recognise the mistakes. This is 15 of the most common ones and how you can avoid them.
MISTAKE: ASSUMING DRIVERS CAN'T/WON'T ATTEMPT THE SAME OVERTAKE AS YOU
HOW many times have you gone to overtake a slow-moving vehicle only to have a car pull out from the queue behind it to attempt the same thing? That's frustrating if you see him swerving out in time, downright dangerous if you don't.
Always assume the driver won't have seen you, let alone given you a second thought. And bear in mind that the higher performance the car, the more likely the driver is to attempt the manoeuvre. One thing the Porsche driver has in common with a Ford driver is he is less likely to look behind before making his move than you are. His chances for overtakes are fewer than your own, so his frustration is greater. If he sees a gap he'll go and it's hard luck if you are alongside at the time. So if you are going to go past him, go as far to the other side of the road as you can in case he swerves out, and go past at a speed at which you can abort if the need arises.
While you are waiting to overtake, don't get too close to his rear. Act as if you are on a long piece of elastic strung out behind the vehicle you want to overtake. When your view of the road ahead is blocked, drop back (stretching the elastic). As you scan ahead, try to predict when the view might open up (on the exit of a corner, for example) and start accelerating with the intention of being in the right position to overtake when you first see the road ahead is clear. You'll actually find the exits of corners are often the best and safest places to whip by.
MISTAKE: ASSUMING DRIVERS CAN'T/WON'T ATTEMPT THE SAME OVERTAKE AS YOU
HOW many times have you gone to overtake a slow-moving vehicle only to have a car pull out from the queue behind it to attempt the same thing? That's frustrating if you see him swerving out in time, downright dangerous if you don't.
Always assume the driver won't have seen you, let alone given you a second thought. And bear in mind that the higher performance the car, the more likely the driver is to attempt the manoeuvre. One thing the Porsche driver has in common with a Ford driver is he is less likely to look behind before making his move than you are. His chances for overtakes are fewer than your own, so his frustration is greater. If he sees a gap he'll go and it's hard luck if you are alongside at the time. So if you are going to go past him, go as far to the other side of the road as you can in case he swerves out, and go past at a speed at which you can abort if the need arises.
While you are waiting to overtake, don't get too close to his rear. Act as if you are on a long piece of elastic strung out behind the vehicle you want to overtake. When your view of the road ahead is blocked, drop back (stretching the elastic). As you scan ahead, try to predict when the view might open up (on the exit of a corner, for example) and start accelerating with the intention of being in the right position to overtake when you first see the road ahead is clear. You'll actually find the exits of corners are often the best and safest places to whip by.
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Road Safety Campaign in UiTM Bandar Iskandar
Today, I was invited by a couple of bikers from Manjung to come to UiTM Bandar Iskandar in Perak for the launch of a safety road campaign. The campaign was launch by an OCPD (forgot his name) and by the director of the university, Dr Mohd Yusof Hj Othman. The event started at about 9.30am. I came with my friend, Husna. There's also bikers from Ipoh, Tapah and also Tanjung Malim, came to participate the event, and all of them were about 20 bikers.
After a few speeches by the VVIPs, the OCPD received an appreciation from the director of the campus.
I took some pictures before proceed to the next function. Actually, the campus looks really nice. Not too hectic like UTP, hehe.
Then, we were invited to have an 'early' lunch with the VVIPs. The food was nice, because it is Negeri Sembilan's dishes, haha, my favourite.
We were entertained by a few of female students, doing abseiling. What a nice view from below, haha.
Then, we went to the booths and surprisingly, we met Wazi Abdul Hamid. He's a racer and also a legend. He was so friendly, not like the 'other' famous Malaysian racer. Huhu. I was pleased to meet and have a chat with him. Now, he's a very important man in a ministry that relates to road safety, somthing like that.
After that, we went to Cameron.
Attention, CORRECTION:
I got this from the comment I received. Therefore, I paste it here;
After a few speeches by the VVIPs, the OCPD received an appreciation from the director of the campus.
I took some pictures before proceed to the next function. Actually, the campus looks really nice. Not too hectic like UTP, hehe.
Then, we were invited to have an 'early' lunch with the VVIPs. The food was nice, because it is Negeri Sembilan's dishes, haha, my favourite.
We were entertained by a few of female students, doing abseiling. What a nice view from below, haha.
Then, we went to the booths and surprisingly, we met Wazi Abdul Hamid. He's a racer and also a legend. He was so friendly, not like the 'other' famous Malaysian racer. Huhu. I was pleased to meet and have a chat with him. Now, he's a very important man in a ministry that relates to road safety, somthing like that.
After that, we went to Cameron.Attention, CORRECTION:
I got this from the comment I received. Therefore, I paste it here;
Asaalamualaikum..Sorry for the wrong information I gave regarding to this post. Thanks Mr Fisal!
If I may make some corrections: The campus director is Prof. Dr. Abdullah Mohd Said. Wazi was invited to conduct Safe Riding Clinic at UiTM as part of the launching of Kempen Keselamatan Jalanraya UiTM Perak.
Thanks to all superbikers who attended the ceremony.. almost 40 turn out.
Mohd. Fisal Ishak
Deputy Director, Student Affair
UiTM Perak.
Friday, August 24, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 6)
Trade Secret Tip #5:
At NAZA Showroom
New Version 5,431.101 just released!
Some motorcycle models just keep getting built year after year for a dozen years or more with slight "improvements" to keep it up to date sometimes. This is a tricky tip and can be good or bad depending on the revision history of the model.
This is where you as a buyer have to play detective and figure out the history of the models and what changes took place. You may discover that some years are much better than others and some years you avoid like the plague.
If they are still using basically the same engine for 10+ years and they "increased" horsepower by 5hp, what did the do to do that? If the bike lost 25 lbs in 10 years, where did they shave it off from? What did it loose or gain along the way?
source TMW
At NAZA ShowroomNew Version 5,431.101 just released!
Some motorcycle models just keep getting built year after year for a dozen years or more with slight "improvements" to keep it up to date sometimes. This is a tricky tip and can be good or bad depending on the revision history of the model.
This is where you as a buyer have to play detective and figure out the history of the models and what changes took place. You may discover that some years are much better than others and some years you avoid like the plague.
If they are still using basically the same engine for 10+ years and they "increased" horsepower by 5hp, what did the do to do that? If the bike lost 25 lbs in 10 years, where did they shave it off from? What did it loose or gain along the way?
source TMW
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 5)
Trade Secret Tip #4:
Ride to Tekala's Waterfall
Lower beats per minute, more relaxed state.
As with humans, if our heart beat too fast for too long, we could die. Same with motorcycle engines. Push the RPM into the red line one too many times and that engine's life expectancy will drop to one day it just won't want to run anymore.
As an engine runs into its high RPM range many things happen. Oil is the life blood of an engine and as it gets hotter it's viscosity brakes down quickly and doesn't do as effective of a job. The engine can overheat causing metal fatigue, internal damage and wear. Some items shrink with too much heat such as O-rings, seals and gaskets causing leaks. Scoring of the piston(s) and chamber is also a concern.
While it is safe and fun to blast away into the red zone under some conditions it is self-defeating to an engine in the long run to do it one too many times.
On the other side of the coin, you do not wish to "Lug" an engine by riding in too low of a RPM. This also places a lot of stress on an engine.
So what do you look for? Mostly the owner of the bike. A typical owner will not only maintain the bike but will also ride the bike properly. Stay away from raced bikes or bikes with lots of kilometers in the hands of timid riders. A timid rider could be the GSX-R750 owner who never takes the bike over 4,500rpm.
source TMW
Ride to Tekala's WaterfallLower beats per minute, more relaxed state.
As with humans, if our heart beat too fast for too long, we could die. Same with motorcycle engines. Push the RPM into the red line one too many times and that engine's life expectancy will drop to one day it just won't want to run anymore.
As an engine runs into its high RPM range many things happen. Oil is the life blood of an engine and as it gets hotter it's viscosity brakes down quickly and doesn't do as effective of a job. The engine can overheat causing metal fatigue, internal damage and wear. Some items shrink with too much heat such as O-rings, seals and gaskets causing leaks. Scoring of the piston(s) and chamber is also a concern.
While it is safe and fun to blast away into the red zone under some conditions it is self-defeating to an engine in the long run to do it one too many times.
On the other side of the coin, you do not wish to "Lug" an engine by riding in too low of a RPM. This also places a lot of stress on an engine.
So what do you look for? Mostly the owner of the bike. A typical owner will not only maintain the bike but will also ride the bike properly. Stay away from raced bikes or bikes with lots of kilometers in the hands of timid riders. A timid rider could be the GSX-R750 owner who never takes the bike over 4,500rpm.
source TMW
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 4)
Trade Secret Tip #3:
Move less, live Longer
Engineers have known for a very long time that the less moving parts you have the greater reliability potential of any part is. Take a tire iron, zero moving parts = last almost forever. Take a jet fighter = zillion moving parts....
All motorcycles are pretty much created equal by nature. They have 2 tires, a frame, seat, handlebars, brakes, but the engine is what sets them really apart. If you have been reading this so far, you have gotten the idea that the engine can be the most important part in reliability. If the engine dies you don't have much of a motorcycle left even if the other parts are in great shape.
So it then comes to reason that the less moving parts you have in an engine the longer it could last. Just to straighten things out we are not talking about an engine design (sport bike, cruiser, 2 stroke etc), but the amount of moving parts in it.
Let's use this example, take Honda CBX Six (1000cc inline 6). It has six pistons, 24 valves, and loads of parts in between. Not only can it be a mechanical nightmare to work on, but the chance of something just needing a replacement part in there somewhere is very high (not to mention the repair bill). If that gives you a headache, let's take the Suzuki Savage 650. Single cylinder, single carb, and much less moving parts, less chance for something to go wrong and even saves you money in the long run.
So look for less complex designs not only in the engine department but also in the whole bike. More electronics, lights and gadgets look great but can quickly burn out and need upkeep. Chains are lighter than shaft drives, but are not as reliable or as cost effective. Hydraulic valves might cut 1-5% top end horsepower but are more reliable than shim type valves. Just remember, less complex = more potential reliability.
source TMW
Move less, live Longer
Engineers have known for a very long time that the less moving parts you have the greater reliability potential of any part is. Take a tire iron, zero moving parts = last almost forever. Take a jet fighter = zillion moving parts....
All motorcycles are pretty much created equal by nature. They have 2 tires, a frame, seat, handlebars, brakes, but the engine is what sets them really apart. If you have been reading this so far, you have gotten the idea that the engine can be the most important part in reliability. If the engine dies you don't have much of a motorcycle left even if the other parts are in great shape.
So it then comes to reason that the less moving parts you have in an engine the longer it could last. Just to straighten things out we are not talking about an engine design (sport bike, cruiser, 2 stroke etc), but the amount of moving parts in it.
Let's use this example, take Honda CBX Six (1000cc inline 6). It has six pistons, 24 valves, and loads of parts in between. Not only can it be a mechanical nightmare to work on, but the chance of something just needing a replacement part in there somewhere is very high (not to mention the repair bill). If that gives you a headache, let's take the Suzuki Savage 650. Single cylinder, single carb, and much less moving parts, less chance for something to go wrong and even saves you money in the long run.
So look for less complex designs not only in the engine department but also in the whole bike. More electronics, lights and gadgets look great but can quickly burn out and need upkeep. Chains are lighter than shaft drives, but are not as reliable or as cost effective. Hydraulic valves might cut 1-5% top end horsepower but are more reliable than shim type valves. Just remember, less complex = more potential reliability.
source TMW
Monday, August 20, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 3)
Trade Secret Tip #2:
A Motorcycle on the Jenny Craig program is not healthy.
Jenny Craig may be positive for weight loss in humans, but it can be very bad for a motorcycle long term. Now we are not talking about voluntary weight loss (removing engine guards, chrome, swapping a stock exhaust for a lighter aftermarket one etc) but built in weight loss from the factory. Typical Steel Frame:
There are reasons motorcycle A weights less than motorcycle B, that weight was taken from somewhere. Sometimes it can be fine (using a different type of material for the frame over steel) and sometimes it is bad (thinner engine walls, less metal in the frame, hollowing out parts).
Let's take the Suzuki GSX-R750 again from above and by the way I'm not picking on the GSX-R750, it is an amazing motorcycle (maybe even #1 in it's class). And let's use the Honda Rebel 250. OK, I'll give you that one is a sport bike and one is a cruiser, but we are looking at the weight more than anything.
The GSX-R weights in at: 166kg (and produces 141hp)
The Rebel weights in at: 139kg (and produces 18hp)
GSX-R Frame - That just looks TOO LIght!27kg in weight difference from a 250cc to 750cc! So, how do you make a 750cc that light! It isn't that the Rebel 250cc is a heavy bike for it's size, it is light as bikes go. So, where did the weight go? Since I've worked on a new GSX-R750, let me tell you...Combine: Thinner engine side walls, lightest engine internals, hollow bolts, thin plastic, the narrowest gauge wiring possible, thinnest frame thickness possible and you are just scratching the surface. While this engine isn't under stress from the bike's weight, it just won't last as long as it could if the design allowed for more weight tolerance. Of course if the bike weighted more, it wouldn't be the same either, but then if would last longer...
So to conclude: More solid, heavier parts, wires, plastic (etc) with greater weight tolerance will last longer than those made to minimum specifications. It just makes sense.
source TMW
A Motorcycle on the Jenny Craig program is not healthy.
Jenny Craig may be positive for weight loss in humans, but it can be very bad for a motorcycle long term. Now we are not talking about voluntary weight loss (removing engine guards, chrome, swapping a stock exhaust for a lighter aftermarket one etc) but built in weight loss from the factory. Typical Steel Frame:
There are reasons motorcycle A weights less than motorcycle B, that weight was taken from somewhere. Sometimes it can be fine (using a different type of material for the frame over steel) and sometimes it is bad (thinner engine walls, less metal in the frame, hollowing out parts).
Let's take the Suzuki GSX-R750 again from above and by the way I'm not picking on the GSX-R750, it is an amazing motorcycle (maybe even #1 in it's class). And let's use the Honda Rebel 250. OK, I'll give you that one is a sport bike and one is a cruiser, but we are looking at the weight more than anything.
The GSX-R weights in at: 166kg (and produces 141hp)
The Rebel weights in at: 139kg (and produces 18hp)
GSX-R Frame - That just looks TOO LIght!27kg in weight difference from a 250cc to 750cc! So, how do you make a 750cc that light! It isn't that the Rebel 250cc is a heavy bike for it's size, it is light as bikes go. So, where did the weight go? Since I've worked on a new GSX-R750, let me tell you...Combine: Thinner engine side walls, lightest engine internals, hollow bolts, thin plastic, the narrowest gauge wiring possible, thinnest frame thickness possible and you are just scratching the surface. While this engine isn't under stress from the bike's weight, it just won't last as long as it could if the design allowed for more weight tolerance. Of course if the bike weighted more, it wouldn't be the same either, but then if would last longer...
So to conclude: More solid, heavier parts, wires, plastic (etc) with greater weight tolerance will last longer than those made to minimum specifications. It just makes sense.
source TMW
Sunday, August 19, 2007
MotoGP Championship 2007 in Brno, Ceske
This time, the race was held in Brno, Ceske. Unfortunately for Rossi, he just manage to get 7th position in the race while Stoner won the grandprix. Hayden managed to get second while Hopkins managed to get 3rd. The points margin between Rossi and Stoner become larger and it will give a hard time for Rossi to catch up. Congratulation to Stoner.Qualifying positions:
Last results:
source from MotoGP.com
Saturday, August 18, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 2)
How to find a reliable used motorcycle and what to look for:
Kuala Klawang Ride
I like the expression: "While most improbable it is not impossible" and that can sum up every used motorcycle of every model ever for sale. Some people will have the world's worst motorcycle commonly known and take it around the world, own it all their lives, put 250,000 miles/kilometers on it and never have an once of trouble. While 80% of those same models didn't last and were problematic as soon as they left the showroom, Go Figure!
This might come as a shock to you but Manufacturers actually design inherent flaws into the design. Like the lightbulb, they can (and have) made them to last forever, Edison's original light bulb is still on for over 100 years and hasn't died yet! So if they made motorcycles that reliable, there wouldn't be any motorcycle manufacturers around since there would be no profit in it. But sometimes, they put together something REALLY good that lasts and lasts and it is these chance motorcycle is what you should look out for.
So, you are probably wondering how do you know if UVW model motorcycle is more reliable than XYZ model? Well, let me tell you some trade secrets then...
Trade Secret Tip #1:
Cameron Ride
Generally horsepower and torque is not conductive of reliability.
Everyone likes horsepower and torque and lots of it please. It is fun, cool and all the rest, but in the long run it can be quite destructive on the engine. A motorcycle engine is small compared to a car, but they easily pack loads of horsepower and torque in there. The more you pack into an engine the higher you stress that engine and it's design. Folks, that isn't good if you want the engine to last a long time.
To put it into perspective, it is prestigious to own the most powerful motorcycle in its class, but unless they designed that engine super well, then it is like burning the candle at both ends. What you should look for is an "average" powerful bike in the category of its time, or a sleeper engine. Take the new Suzuki Bandit 1200 for example, 98.5hp for a 1200cc engine. You look at that versus the GSX-R750 with 145hp for a 750cc engine. Now what engine do you think is stressed? What engine do you think should last longer?
This is just a rule of thumb, there are exceptions; it may be the owner of the GSX-R is a little old lady and the Bandit owner loves the race track...
Side Note #1: Generally speaking the bigger cc the engine is (and less stressed it is) the longer it will last as well. You might think big slow V-Twin engine with low horsepower would last a long time, but then you have to consider the bike's weight the engine has to push/pull around. The more the bike weights, the more stress on the engine as well.
source TMW
Kuala Klawang RideThis might come as a shock to you but Manufacturers actually design inherent flaws into the design. Like the lightbulb, they can (and have) made them to last forever, Edison's original light bulb is still on for over 100 years and hasn't died yet! So if they made motorcycles that reliable, there wouldn't be any motorcycle manufacturers around since there would be no profit in it. But sometimes, they put together something REALLY good that lasts and lasts and it is these chance motorcycle is what you should look out for.
So, you are probably wondering how do you know if UVW model motorcycle is more reliable than XYZ model? Well, let me tell you some trade secrets then...
Trade Secret Tip #1:
Cameron RideEveryone likes horsepower and torque and lots of it please. It is fun, cool and all the rest, but in the long run it can be quite destructive on the engine. A motorcycle engine is small compared to a car, but they easily pack loads of horsepower and torque in there. The more you pack into an engine the higher you stress that engine and it's design. Folks, that isn't good if you want the engine to last a long time.
To put it into perspective, it is prestigious to own the most powerful motorcycle in its class, but unless they designed that engine super well, then it is like burning the candle at both ends. What you should look for is an "average" powerful bike in the category of its time, or a sleeper engine. Take the new Suzuki Bandit 1200 for example, 98.5hp for a 1200cc engine. You look at that versus the GSX-R750 with 145hp for a 750cc engine. Now what engine do you think is stressed? What engine do you think should last longer?
This is just a rule of thumb, there are exceptions; it may be the owner of the GSX-R is a little old lady and the Bandit owner loves the race track...
Side Note #1: Generally speaking the bigger cc the engine is (and less stressed it is) the longer it will last as well. You might think big slow V-Twin engine with low horsepower would last a long time, but then you have to consider the bike's weight the engine has to push/pull around. The more the bike weights, the more stress on the engine as well.
source TMW
Friday, August 17, 2007
Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide (Part 1)
Forward:
Roadblock in Ulu Yam
Motorcycling is back in full force popularity again and we are no longer in the 1980's slump. People from all walks of life are again enjoying the sport of getting on a motorcycling and getting out into the great unknown. Many of the new riders to the sport are the baby boomers who started the whole motorcycle generation back in the 60's, but we see the brand new rider as well. Maybe those brand new to the sport were inspired by the baby boomer generation of motorcyclists, or competition riders on TV but for whatever reason they have chosen to get ride a motorcycle we can only thank you for keeping the sport alive and thriving today.
While there are quite a few great motorcycle buyers guides out there in books and on the Internet, I could not find a good used motorcycle buyers guide that focused on the best consistently reliable motorcycles produced. This led to three years of research to come up with this guide you see on the Total Motorcycle Website today. Along the way I talked to way too many motorcycle owners, clubs, read too many magazines and even worked for a used motorcycle mechanic for the whole summer and picked his and his customers brains about bikes. I do not pretend to be an expert or know-it-all, but I'll share what I've learned along the way and fix it when I learn differently.
So, what we need is some type of reliability standards that most people can agree to. The standards I use is:
- If the majority of a certain model is good then the overall bike design is a good one.
- If a survey of motorcycle shops shows they do not get very many (if any at all) of a certain model for any major repairs than it must be reliable. If the same is true about minor repairs, then it must be very reliable.
- If you still see them on the road 20 years later then that says something about the design and reliability as well.
- If parts are dirt cheap on eBay for that model then that could mean there is no market for replacement parts since the original ones don't really wear out that great. (Ignore this rule for rare and collector bikes).
- If a motorcycle magazine reviews an original model after 10+ years of it being introduced and still says very good things about it, that is very good.
- If you find owners not wanting to part with a 10+ year old model (even if they can afford a new(er) one) then there is something to be said about that.
Ok, so you are now getting a basic idea of the reliability standards we are talking about here then.
I hope you enjoy the Reliable Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide and use it often.
from TMW
Roadblock in Ulu YamWhile there are quite a few great motorcycle buyers guides out there in books and on the Internet, I could not find a good used motorcycle buyers guide that focused on the best consistently reliable motorcycles produced. This led to three years of research to come up with this guide you see on the Total Motorcycle Website today. Along the way I talked to way too many motorcycle owners, clubs, read too many magazines and even worked for a used motorcycle mechanic for the whole summer and picked his and his customers brains about bikes. I do not pretend to be an expert or know-it-all, but I'll share what I've learned along the way and fix it when I learn differently.
So, what we need is some type of reliability standards that most people can agree to. The standards I use is:
- If the majority of a certain model is good then the overall bike design is a good one.
- If a survey of motorcycle shops shows they do not get very many (if any at all) of a certain model for any major repairs than it must be reliable. If the same is true about minor repairs, then it must be very reliable.
- If you still see them on the road 20 years later then that says something about the design and reliability as well.
- If parts are dirt cheap on eBay for that model then that could mean there is no market for replacement parts since the original ones don't really wear out that great. (Ignore this rule for rare and collector bikes).
- If a motorcycle magazine reviews an original model after 10+ years of it being introduced and still says very good things about it, that is very good.
- If you find owners not wanting to part with a 10+ year old model (even if they can afford a new(er) one) then there is something to be said about that.
Ok, so you are now getting a basic idea of the reliability standards we are talking about here then.
I hope you enjoy the Reliable Used Motorcycle Buyers Guide and use it often.
from TMW
Thursday, August 9, 2007
Choosing Your Motorcycle And Not Someone Else's
Choosing a motorcycle is a personal experience, it has to be like that so you can enjoy your new life style as you want to experience it. Every type of bike will give you a little different feeling and view of motorcycling, with no view being more right, better, worse or wrong. They are all different flavours offered to you to be enjoyed at your own time of choosing.
So, what do you choose? Where do you go? What to buy? Where do I get insurance?
First of all, the best way to find out these questions would be to take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Course in your area. Not only is it a good way to learn a ride a motorcycle properly and more enjoyably, but a great way to avoid learning things the hard way on the road with your new bike. A good MSF course will even provide you with an assortment of motorcycles (standards, cruisers, sport bikes) to learn on, a helmet and even gloves! Of course, choosing to take an MSF Course is totally up to you.
The second step is to imagine what type of riding you would like to try and fit a motorcycle type to it. Don't worry about engine sizes yet, just fitting the style of the bike with what you want to do. You can do anything of course with any style of bike, and it may be interesting to try that but for your first bike, best to stick with the most compatible choice. Say you want to ride fast in the twisties, well, a touring bike could work, but it won't be nearly as fun, handle as well, or be able to do what you want it to do as well as a sport bike will.
NEW OR USED?
Big decision, but a that new model or go for the cheaper used one? Almost every rider goes though this decision, sometimes it is based on finances, other times it is based on looks and feeling. If you get that new one, do you have the cash to fix it up in case you drop it ($$$)? If you get that old one, do you have the cash to fix it up if it needs it ($)? Have you considered insurance for that new ($$$) or used ($) bike? How about maintenance, oil, gas, tires...
This section will help you out, just relax and read on...
A New Bike: The vast majority of new motorcycles will be found at a motorcycle dealership. Most dealerships specialize in one (Harley Davidson, Buell) or two brands of bikes (like a Yamaha/Suzuki). Also some will have the major Japanese brands (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha) and fewer yet will have Japanese (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha) and European (BMW, Moto Guzzi, Aprilia, Ducati, Bimota, MZ) bikes on display. If you are looking around for the first time, why not travel to all your local dealerships and see what they have any ways. It is a great way to learn what style, size, manufacturer and peg layout suits you best. Another great way of getting your information is also to read websites on the Internet (like this one for example), looking through brochures, magazines and reading books (see my recommendations). If you have the money to buy a new bike, you might as well use all your resources to make an educated rather than passionate purchase.
Word of advice on buying a new bike: Not to overly worry you or discourage the purchase of a new motorcycle, but almost everyone drops their bike in their first year. It is "normal" to hear and know people who have done this so if it happens to you, don't freak out about it. So my advice is, if you really want that new first bike try to buy a model that isn't expensive to replace scratched/damaged components. Sport bike plastic farings can run hundreds of dollars each (or more), chrome isn't as expensive to replace unless there is gobs of it damaged, and naked bikes with no farings or gobs of chrome as the cheapest to fix up like the Suzuki GS500 for example.
The manufacturers are again starting to get the word about smaller cc bikes. They are again making them so that you have the opportunity to learn on a bike that will fit your learning curve. In Canada they make beginner cruisers from 125cc (Kawasaki Eliminator), 250cc (Suzuki Marauder, Honda Rebel), 500cc (Kawasaki Vulcan). Sport bikes in 250cc (Kawasaki Ninja 250), 500cc (Kawasaki Ninja 500, Suzuki GS500) and standards in light easily to handle sizes like the Suzuki GS500.
A Used Bike: Used is the way the majority of new motorcyclist take. If for no other reason then cost of the bike and any repairs, then you are already going to save a lot of money. Depending on where you live, generally the bigger the city, the more used bikes will be for sale. Some a great deals, others you don't want to touch with a 10' pole! As with buying new, check out websites on the Internet (like this one for example), looking through brochures, magazines and reading books (see my recommendations).
I've found all of my bikes (all used so far) from the local Buy & Sell/Bargain Finder (local a newspaper/magazine that lists everything from toasters and furniture to autos and motorcycles). For me, the bikes have been in better shape and price than what I could find used at the dealerships. Also, you get to know the owner, ask important maintenance questions and see how the bike has been treated. Usually dealerships won't know this information.
My BEST piece of advice (so far) I can offer you about buying a used motorcycle: Would be to bring a certified motorcycle mechanic with you to inspect the bike you want to buy. Read that line over again. It will cost you something (from a case of beer and up), but it is really really worth it, even if you yourself do mechanics already he/she will point out things to you that because of your excited condition would not have noticed. Also, they have a good chance of knowing the repair history of this type of bike/model and can even give you a good idea of what it is REALLY worth. By using a certified motorcycle mechanic to check out my 1982 XJ650R Seca I saved $560 and he even negotiated with the seller with me as well on the price! (asking $1400, I bought it for $840).
Buying a used motorcycle from a dealership: While dealerships generally sell their used bikes for more money than what you would pay going though the paper, there is a reason to this. They say (I have no way to verify if the place you check out does this) that they drain and replace the fluids (oil, brake, gas, coolant) and give the bike a check over, if they find anything that needs replacing, they do that as well (tires, etc). Maybe they do it, maybe they don't, but if you are interested ask them nicely.
source totalmotorcycle.com
So, what do you choose? Where do you go? What to buy? Where do I get insurance?
First of all, the best way to find out these questions would be to take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Course in your area. Not only is it a good way to learn a ride a motorcycle properly and more enjoyably, but a great way to avoid learning things the hard way on the road with your new bike. A good MSF course will even provide you with an assortment of motorcycles (standards, cruisers, sport bikes) to learn on, a helmet and even gloves! Of course, choosing to take an MSF Course is totally up to you.
The second step is to imagine what type of riding you would like to try and fit a motorcycle type to it. Don't worry about engine sizes yet, just fitting the style of the bike with what you want to do. You can do anything of course with any style of bike, and it may be interesting to try that but for your first bike, best to stick with the most compatible choice. Say you want to ride fast in the twisties, well, a touring bike could work, but it won't be nearly as fun, handle as well, or be able to do what you want it to do as well as a sport bike will.
NEW OR USED?
Big decision, but a that new model or go for the cheaper used one? Almost every rider goes though this decision, sometimes it is based on finances, other times it is based on looks and feeling. If you get that new one, do you have the cash to fix it up in case you drop it ($$$)? If you get that old one, do you have the cash to fix it up if it needs it ($)? Have you considered insurance for that new ($$$) or used ($) bike? How about maintenance, oil, gas, tires...
This section will help you out, just relax and read on...
A New Bike: The vast majority of new motorcycles will be found at a motorcycle dealership. Most dealerships specialize in one (Harley Davidson, Buell) or two brands of bikes (like a Yamaha/Suzuki). Also some will have the major Japanese brands (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha) and fewer yet will have Japanese (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha) and European (BMW, Moto Guzzi, Aprilia, Ducati, Bimota, MZ) bikes on display. If you are looking around for the first time, why not travel to all your local dealerships and see what they have any ways. It is a great way to learn what style, size, manufacturer and peg layout suits you best. Another great way of getting your information is also to read websites on the Internet (like this one for example), looking through brochures, magazines and reading books (see my recommendations). If you have the money to buy a new bike, you might as well use all your resources to make an educated rather than passionate purchase.
Word of advice on buying a new bike: Not to overly worry you or discourage the purchase of a new motorcycle, but almost everyone drops their bike in their first year. It is "normal" to hear and know people who have done this so if it happens to you, don't freak out about it. So my advice is, if you really want that new first bike try to buy a model that isn't expensive to replace scratched/damaged components. Sport bike plastic farings can run hundreds of dollars each (or more), chrome isn't as expensive to replace unless there is gobs of it damaged, and naked bikes with no farings or gobs of chrome as the cheapest to fix up like the Suzuki GS500 for example.
The manufacturers are again starting to get the word about smaller cc bikes. They are again making them so that you have the opportunity to learn on a bike that will fit your learning curve. In Canada they make beginner cruisers from 125cc (Kawasaki Eliminator), 250cc (Suzuki Marauder, Honda Rebel), 500cc (Kawasaki Vulcan). Sport bikes in 250cc (Kawasaki Ninja 250), 500cc (Kawasaki Ninja 500, Suzuki GS500) and standards in light easily to handle sizes like the Suzuki GS500.
A Used Bike: Used is the way the majority of new motorcyclist take. If for no other reason then cost of the bike and any repairs, then you are already going to save a lot of money. Depending on where you live, generally the bigger the city, the more used bikes will be for sale. Some a great deals, others you don't want to touch with a 10' pole! As with buying new, check out websites on the Internet (like this one for example), looking through brochures, magazines and reading books (see my recommendations).
I've found all of my bikes (all used so far) from the local Buy & Sell/Bargain Finder (local a newspaper/magazine that lists everything from toasters and furniture to autos and motorcycles). For me, the bikes have been in better shape and price than what I could find used at the dealerships. Also, you get to know the owner, ask important maintenance questions and see how the bike has been treated. Usually dealerships won't know this information.
My BEST piece of advice (so far) I can offer you about buying a used motorcycle: Would be to bring a certified motorcycle mechanic with you to inspect the bike you want to buy. Read that line over again. It will cost you something (from a case of beer and up), but it is really really worth it, even if you yourself do mechanics already he/she will point out things to you that because of your excited condition would not have noticed. Also, they have a good chance of knowing the repair history of this type of bike/model and can even give you a good idea of what it is REALLY worth. By using a certified motorcycle mechanic to check out my 1982 XJ650R Seca I saved $560 and he even negotiated with the seller with me as well on the price! (asking $1400, I bought it for $840).
Buying a used motorcycle from a dealership: While dealerships generally sell their used bikes for more money than what you would pay going though the paper, there is a reason to this. They say (I have no way to verify if the place you check out does this) that they drain and replace the fluids (oil, brake, gas, coolant) and give the bike a check over, if they find anything that needs replacing, they do that as well (tires, etc). Maybe they do it, maybe they don't, but if you are interested ask them nicely.
source totalmotorcycle.com
Thursday, August 2, 2007
Motorcyclist's Skills Series: Slippery When Wet
1. Some riders think when the rain starts to come down, so should the garage door, tucking the bike away until the sun shines again the following spring. Unfortunately, they're missing one of the best motorcycling experiences. Riding in the rain can be fun as long as you know what to expect and how to change your riding accordingly.
First of all, clothe yourself properly. A good rainsuit, gloves, boots, and perhaps an electric vest, can keep even the most persistent storm from soaking you. But most importantly, you must change the way you handle the motorcycle. Throttle adjustments need to be made smoothly and in small increments; use less lean angle; gradually apply your brakes and get your braking done early.
2. Be wary of intersections when riding in wet conditions. We all know about the oils in the pavement that surface after a rain, but what about the oil that was already there? Any place in the road where cars come to a stop will have a higher concentration of the slick stuff. The rain makes it worse. You may not be able to spot this while riding, so it's best to decrease your speed when approaching intersections. Don't run yellow lights, because if you have to turn or brake quickly chances are you'll encounter a traction problem. When stopped at a red light, check the rear-view mirror for cars that could slide into you from behind. Also, double your following distance so as not to be surprised by cars stopping suddenly in front of you.
3. Two things we've noticed that drastically reduce traction during wet weather are manhole covers and sealer pavement. Both of these are like black ice when it's raining. When traveling in a straight line they pose less of a threat, but be sure to scan well ahead before you turn the bike to enter an intersection. Get off the brakes early and take a line that's clear of traction-limiting obstructions. Sealer pavement is usually darker than the surrounding blacktop. It can be found in town or on rural roads, and it comes in large patches or smaller sections where it's used for crack repair. If you encounter either of these traction inhibitors resist braking or accelerating hard. If you have to change your line or turn over a greasy section, keep your hands relaxed on the clip-ons and don't lean the bike any more than necessary.
4. Although this may seem obvious, it is amazing how many people we see riding in an area of the lane that is wet even though an adjacent area is dry. Dry pavement offers superior traction and maneuverability, so make sure you continually place yourself in the driest section of the lane. If you can force yourself to slow down and be relaxed, you will find that rain riding (and even touring) can teach you how to be a better and more confident rider. City riding in stormy weather is by far the most nerve-racking, but just because the clouds roll in doesn't mean you can't ride almost every day. Remembering a few pointers can make riding in the rain easier and safer than you think. And besides, who wants to garage their motorcycle for five months out of the year?
taken from Singapore Bike Forum
First of all, clothe yourself properly. A good rainsuit, gloves, boots, and perhaps an electric vest, can keep even the most persistent storm from soaking you. But most importantly, you must change the way you handle the motorcycle. Throttle adjustments need to be made smoothly and in small increments; use less lean angle; gradually apply your brakes and get your braking done early.
2. Be wary of intersections when riding in wet conditions. We all know about the oils in the pavement that surface after a rain, but what about the oil that was already there? Any place in the road where cars come to a stop will have a higher concentration of the slick stuff. The rain makes it worse. You may not be able to spot this while riding, so it's best to decrease your speed when approaching intersections. Don't run yellow lights, because if you have to turn or brake quickly chances are you'll encounter a traction problem. When stopped at a red light, check the rear-view mirror for cars that could slide into you from behind. Also, double your following distance so as not to be surprised by cars stopping suddenly in front of you.
3. Two things we've noticed that drastically reduce traction during wet weather are manhole covers and sealer pavement. Both of these are like black ice when it's raining. When traveling in a straight line they pose less of a threat, but be sure to scan well ahead before you turn the bike to enter an intersection. Get off the brakes early and take a line that's clear of traction-limiting obstructions. Sealer pavement is usually darker than the surrounding blacktop. It can be found in town or on rural roads, and it comes in large patches or smaller sections where it's used for crack repair. If you encounter either of these traction inhibitors resist braking or accelerating hard. If you have to change your line or turn over a greasy section, keep your hands relaxed on the clip-ons and don't lean the bike any more than necessary.
4. Although this may seem obvious, it is amazing how many people we see riding in an area of the lane that is wet even though an adjacent area is dry. Dry pavement offers superior traction and maneuverability, so make sure you continually place yourself in the driest section of the lane. If you can force yourself to slow down and be relaxed, you will find that rain riding (and even touring) can teach you how to be a better and more confident rider. City riding in stormy weather is by far the most nerve-racking, but just because the clouds roll in doesn't mean you can't ride almost every day. Remembering a few pointers can make riding in the rain easier and safer than you think. And besides, who wants to garage their motorcycle for five months out of the year?
taken from Singapore Bike Forum
10 Habits For A Good Motorcyclist
10 habits of a good rider
** riding is always good riding. Riding safely is mostly a matter of knowledge and attitude, and riding safely doesn't have to be boring. In fact, riding safely could add years of enjoyment to your life. **
1. Be ready in mind, body, and bike.
There are three ways riders should ready themselves for a ride. First, there is mental readiness. Are you ready to concentrate on riding? If you are angry or preoccupied by something, taking your bike out may not be the best idea. In an aggravated or distracted state you are much more likely to be involved in a crash or do something foolish. A proper attitude will not only make you safer but your spouse and co-workers are less likely to plot against you when you're happy. Put your worries in your saddlebags and focus on riding the bike. Limbering up mentally, by taking time to focus on the task ahead, visualizing your route, and being ready for trouble spots is great way to prepare.
It goes without saying that drugs and alcohol should be avoided at all costs, but I'm going to say it anyway. Alcohol affects your judgment, reaction time, and balance, among other things. Loss of control of these things can easily mean your bike will soon be lying on its side. You might even get to ride in the back of a squad car. Even simple cold and allergy medications can seriously impair your riding, making you sleepy or sluggish. Safe motorcycling is demanding--don't demand more of yourself than you're capable of supplying.
Second, you must be physically prepared. Start with good protective gear. This means a helmet, gloves, eye protection, jacket, long pants and sturdy boots or shoes. Wear gear that is designed for use on a motorcycle, not a beach or a fancy nightclub. The people you see wearing a helmet, a smile and not much else are not well protected. Likewise, folks in eight layers of leather, kevlar and body armor but no helmet are not well protected. It is a whole package, and you need to wear it every time. If it's too hot to wear protective clothing, it's too hot to ride, period.
Pretend your gear is a big helping of mashed potatoes and you are the gravy inside the little bowl you made with your potatoes. If you remove a bit of the potatoes, the gravy can leak out and mix with your Jell-O. (No, thanks.) That's what happens without all your gear, the unprotected bits could leak out.
Try not to choose all black gear. Sure, it looks cool, but bright colors will help you stand out in traffic.
On top of that, stay healthy. Well-balanced meals, plenty of water, and minimal amounts of fatty food and caffeine lend themselves to safe riding. Physical fitness will help your riding in countless ways--comfort on longer rides, better and sharper reflexes, plus, you look better in leather! Also try some stretching exercises before you ride. Limbering up physically before a ride helps you stay in the saddle longer.
Third, you must make sure that your bike is up for the job. This includes not only fixing the parts that break, but doing all the preventive maintenance that is so easy to skip: regular oil changes, properly adjusted controls, a properly adjusted chain and suspension, good tires, working turn signals, you get the idea. A few dollars spent ahead of time will keep your bike going for years. Plus, the best way to keep the buzzards from circling when you break down in the desert is to simply not break down.
With all that routine maintenance out of the way, do a quick walk around of your bike as you get ready for your ride. Look for leaks, loose bolts, tire problems, or any thing else out of place. And not to sound like your mother, but when was the last time you checked your tire's air pressure? If it has been more than a week it's been too long. And one more thing: no running with scissors!
2. Be smooth.
The sign of a really great rider is smoothness--and I don't mean Barry White, smooth-with-the-ladies kind of smooth. The smooth I am referring to is the kind which can balance a cup of coffee on the gas tank, take a 40-mile ride and never spill a drop. It takes plenty of concentration, but smooth control of your ride has plenty of specific benefits.
You are less likely to lose traction due to an overzealous use of the throttle. Holding your throttle wide open takes no skill at all. If that was all it took to be fast, we would all be world-class riders. Look at racing: the fastest racers in the world are always described as being smooth, able to guide their bikes around a track without making abrupt control inputs. Good control inputs are simply rolling on the throttle gently as you accelerate and gently rolling off before you brake, not winding it out in first gear then chopping the throttle as you hit a corner.
The same applies to your brakes. If you instantly grab a big handful of brake you may get a nasty surprise when your bike begins to travels sideways.
This also includes matching the engine to the proper gear and road speed. Having your bike in the right gear keeps the power for accelerating or engine braking close at hand, while also keeping the bike running along smoothly.
You maintain your best traction when your inputs are smooth, including your steering inputs. Harsh or abrupt pressure on the handlebars can upset the suspension. Smooth, firm countersteering keeps the bike on your desired line and creates little instability in the suspension.
Your tires, brakes, suspension, and bearings will last longer, too. Smooth riding makes for less wear and tear on your bike. So remember, smooth is as smooth does, and it can be a beautiful thing to see.
3. Know where you are.
When it does come time to make an emergency maneuver, you need to know what's around you. In fact, this is good information to have at all times. Being aware of what is in your immediate area will always help you guide your ride safely. Failure to be aware of your position in relation to those around you can cause dire consequences when faced with the need to make a quick lane change. Other vehicles have a nasty habit of sneaking in to places you can't see them, like the blind spots over your shoulders. Sometimes it's hard to imagine a mini-van disappearing, but it can happen. Once in that blind spot, you can find that a vehicle is easy to forget until you try to turn and find yourself mere inches from a bumper and big tires. Pay special attention to what's in front of you, especially oncoming traffic. It's easy to disregard traffic traveling in the opposite direction but that is where your greatest threat lies. Be ready for the car that turns left in front of you.
4. Use your head to look where you're going.
This may sound slightly remedial but it is an under-appreciated habit of a skilled rider. It becomes even more important in corners where riders tend to be mesmerized by the patch of pavement directly in front of their bike. As you corner, keep your head and eyes up, looking through the corner as far as you safely can, at least three to four seconds ahead. (If you can't see that far ahead, you need to slow down.) You'll be surprised by what you may see. Couple this new-found vigilance with an escape route (should something wicked your way come) and your chances of getting intimately familiar with the pavement are cut dramatically. Often a good game to play is the "What if � ?" game. Try to anticipate that car turning left in front of you or a spaceship crash landing in your path. Hey, if it happens on TV, it could happen to you, right?
5. When your line of sight or path of travel becomes restricted, reduce your speed and use great care.
On the surface this seems to be a no-brainer, but think back to the last time a car you were following began to slow down. Did you slow and maintain a safe following distance or did you end up tailgating until the car turned or stopped? This is a very common mistake that many of us are guilty of committing. Unless "the force" is strong with you (there are not many Jedi Knights on this planet), it is tough to avoid what you cannot see. I bent two rims on a bike once because I was following so close to the vehicle in front of me that I was unable to avoid the gaping pothole that fell out from under the car at me. It was an expensive lesson that I will not forget. Simply put, if you can't see, slow down. Rain and fog are examples of situations where less speed equals more reaction time. Curvy forest or mountain roads are fun, but because their sightlines are shorter, you need to reduce your speed to be prepared for surprises like deer, big rocks, and enormous filthy vehicles straddling the centerline.
6. Before proceeding through any intersection, check left, check front, check right, then check left again.
This is a fine example of managing your priorities. As you enter an intersection, whether turning or proceeding through, you need to know what your hazards are and where they can come from. The highest priority is to check your left. Why left? The left is the highest priority because that is the lane of traffic you first cross and therefore would be the first to impact you. After the left you continue to check the intersection in a clockwise pattern. So next is the front because the vehicle coming toward you is a threat if it turns left in front of you. It is worthwhile to note the bulk (77%) of two-vehicle motorcycle crashes occur from impacts coming from this direction. Then you check to the right. If slowing or turning you check behind you (we'll look at this more in habit #7) then back around to the left again. You check the left twice since in the time it takes to check all other directions the situation could have changed to the left.
7. Whenever you slow, first check your rearview mirror.
Too often, what is out of sight is out of mind. As you slow down for any turn or a stop, you need to be aware of what is happening behind you. This is part of your general awareness of what is happening in your surroundings on the road. A quick look into your rearview mirrors will give you an idea of what traffic is doing behind you. The habit to get into is to check your mirrors every five to seven seconds, and also any time you roll off the throttle. Combine that with gentle application of both brakes and rarely will a stop be anything more than routine. A good reminder for this is that it is a proven fact flying insects do not check their rearview mirrors and you see what happens to them on your face shield.
There is a big exception to this. When you have to do a quick or emergency stop your priority is in front of you, but once that is taken care of it is doubly important to check your backside in case the driver following you was caught off guard by your sudden stop. Some riders use a label maker to put a reminder on their speedometer to "check mirrors".
8. Keep a 2-4 second following distance.
Following too close to the vehicle in front of you is arguably one of the greatest sins committed by most riders on a regular basis. I find myself inching up on the bumper of the vehicle in front of me all the time. Usually it's only because I want to drive faster than the car in front of me allows, but I have paid the price both in money and nervous close calls because I gave myself little to no reaction time by following too closely.
When traveling on a highway, the minimum distance to keep between you and the vehicle in front of you is 2 seconds, but that is the bare minimum. A 2-second following distance is like buying the cheapest bullet -proof vest you can find: sure, it's protection, but if you really want to be safe, you'll upgrade. That upgrade would be to a 4-second following distance. Keep in mind these distances are needed on clear sunny days. At night or during inclement weather you need to increase your safety margin. You should maintain these cushions as best as possible including the time you find yourself riding in traffic with a group of motorcycles.
To figure your distance correctly pick a point on the road, like a sign or a seam in the pavement, watch the vehicle ahead of you pass it and count the seconds it takes you to reach that point. The number of seconds you count is your following distance.
If you have trouble with this and just want to estimate the distance in feet use this formula: at 70 mph you travel approximately 105 feet a second, so 2 seconds times 105 feet would be 210 feet. But remember, that is the bare minimum. More is always better.
9. Ride with a great attitude.
This is one of the best ways to enjoy riding more and to effect a change in the general public's sometime dim view of motorcycling. A bad attitude will be reflected in your riding and a preoccupation with whatever made you grumpy will only distract you from the job at hand: safely riding your motorcycle.
On anything other than wide open country roads, you have a choice while riding: ride with the flow of traffic, or fight it. There are often times when traffic is not moving at a speed you would choose. When this happens poor riders zig-zag through the slower traffic, tailgating, cutting people off and generally irritating everyone on the road, reinforcing the perception that all motorcyclists are daredevil speed demons with no respect for mom, apple pie or the law.
Option two is you can try to be a courteous rider demonstrating what a responsible person you are, "Look ma, I'm all growed up now." It is my opinion that nothing harms the image of motorcycling more than a rider aggressively weaving through traffic on a motorcycle. It may impress 14-year-old boys being shuttled to little league, but they don't vote or call their elected representatives, although their parents sometimes do.
10. Practice.
The very best time to practice these habits is every time you go out for a ride. Spend at least a few minutes every ride concentrating on each of these habits and soon they will become second nature to you. Don't focus so hard on practicing that you lose sight of the job at hand. Instead integrate practice into your normal riding routine.
taken from Singapore Bike Forum
** riding is always good riding. Riding safely is mostly a matter of knowledge and attitude, and riding safely doesn't have to be boring. In fact, riding safely could add years of enjoyment to your life. **
1. Be ready in mind, body, and bike.
There are three ways riders should ready themselves for a ride. First, there is mental readiness. Are you ready to concentrate on riding? If you are angry or preoccupied by something, taking your bike out may not be the best idea. In an aggravated or distracted state you are much more likely to be involved in a crash or do something foolish. A proper attitude will not only make you safer but your spouse and co-workers are less likely to plot against you when you're happy. Put your worries in your saddlebags and focus on riding the bike. Limbering up mentally, by taking time to focus on the task ahead, visualizing your route, and being ready for trouble spots is great way to prepare.
It goes without saying that drugs and alcohol should be avoided at all costs, but I'm going to say it anyway. Alcohol affects your judgment, reaction time, and balance, among other things. Loss of control of these things can easily mean your bike will soon be lying on its side. You might even get to ride in the back of a squad car. Even simple cold and allergy medications can seriously impair your riding, making you sleepy or sluggish. Safe motorcycling is demanding--don't demand more of yourself than you're capable of supplying.
Second, you must be physically prepared. Start with good protective gear. This means a helmet, gloves, eye protection, jacket, long pants and sturdy boots or shoes. Wear gear that is designed for use on a motorcycle, not a beach or a fancy nightclub. The people you see wearing a helmet, a smile and not much else are not well protected. Likewise, folks in eight layers of leather, kevlar and body armor but no helmet are not well protected. It is a whole package, and you need to wear it every time. If it's too hot to wear protective clothing, it's too hot to ride, period.
Pretend your gear is a big helping of mashed potatoes and you are the gravy inside the little bowl you made with your potatoes. If you remove a bit of the potatoes, the gravy can leak out and mix with your Jell-O. (No, thanks.) That's what happens without all your gear, the unprotected bits could leak out.
Try not to choose all black gear. Sure, it looks cool, but bright colors will help you stand out in traffic.
On top of that, stay healthy. Well-balanced meals, plenty of water, and minimal amounts of fatty food and caffeine lend themselves to safe riding. Physical fitness will help your riding in countless ways--comfort on longer rides, better and sharper reflexes, plus, you look better in leather! Also try some stretching exercises before you ride. Limbering up physically before a ride helps you stay in the saddle longer.
Third, you must make sure that your bike is up for the job. This includes not only fixing the parts that break, but doing all the preventive maintenance that is so easy to skip: regular oil changes, properly adjusted controls, a properly adjusted chain and suspension, good tires, working turn signals, you get the idea. A few dollars spent ahead of time will keep your bike going for years. Plus, the best way to keep the buzzards from circling when you break down in the desert is to simply not break down.
With all that routine maintenance out of the way, do a quick walk around of your bike as you get ready for your ride. Look for leaks, loose bolts, tire problems, or any thing else out of place. And not to sound like your mother, but when was the last time you checked your tire's air pressure? If it has been more than a week it's been too long. And one more thing: no running with scissors!
2. Be smooth.
The sign of a really great rider is smoothness--and I don't mean Barry White, smooth-with-the-ladies kind of smooth. The smooth I am referring to is the kind which can balance a cup of coffee on the gas tank, take a 40-mile ride and never spill a drop. It takes plenty of concentration, but smooth control of your ride has plenty of specific benefits.
You are less likely to lose traction due to an overzealous use of the throttle. Holding your throttle wide open takes no skill at all. If that was all it took to be fast, we would all be world-class riders. Look at racing: the fastest racers in the world are always described as being smooth, able to guide their bikes around a track without making abrupt control inputs. Good control inputs are simply rolling on the throttle gently as you accelerate and gently rolling off before you brake, not winding it out in first gear then chopping the throttle as you hit a corner.
The same applies to your brakes. If you instantly grab a big handful of brake you may get a nasty surprise when your bike begins to travels sideways.
This also includes matching the engine to the proper gear and road speed. Having your bike in the right gear keeps the power for accelerating or engine braking close at hand, while also keeping the bike running along smoothly.
You maintain your best traction when your inputs are smooth, including your steering inputs. Harsh or abrupt pressure on the handlebars can upset the suspension. Smooth, firm countersteering keeps the bike on your desired line and creates little instability in the suspension.
Your tires, brakes, suspension, and bearings will last longer, too. Smooth riding makes for less wear and tear on your bike. So remember, smooth is as smooth does, and it can be a beautiful thing to see.
3. Know where you are.
When it does come time to make an emergency maneuver, you need to know what's around you. In fact, this is good information to have at all times. Being aware of what is in your immediate area will always help you guide your ride safely. Failure to be aware of your position in relation to those around you can cause dire consequences when faced with the need to make a quick lane change. Other vehicles have a nasty habit of sneaking in to places you can't see them, like the blind spots over your shoulders. Sometimes it's hard to imagine a mini-van disappearing, but it can happen. Once in that blind spot, you can find that a vehicle is easy to forget until you try to turn and find yourself mere inches from a bumper and big tires. Pay special attention to what's in front of you, especially oncoming traffic. It's easy to disregard traffic traveling in the opposite direction but that is where your greatest threat lies. Be ready for the car that turns left in front of you.
4. Use your head to look where you're going.
This may sound slightly remedial but it is an under-appreciated habit of a skilled rider. It becomes even more important in corners where riders tend to be mesmerized by the patch of pavement directly in front of their bike. As you corner, keep your head and eyes up, looking through the corner as far as you safely can, at least three to four seconds ahead. (If you can't see that far ahead, you need to slow down.) You'll be surprised by what you may see. Couple this new-found vigilance with an escape route (should something wicked your way come) and your chances of getting intimately familiar with the pavement are cut dramatically. Often a good game to play is the "What if � ?" game. Try to anticipate that car turning left in front of you or a spaceship crash landing in your path. Hey, if it happens on TV, it could happen to you, right?
5. When your line of sight or path of travel becomes restricted, reduce your speed and use great care.
On the surface this seems to be a no-brainer, but think back to the last time a car you were following began to slow down. Did you slow and maintain a safe following distance or did you end up tailgating until the car turned or stopped? This is a very common mistake that many of us are guilty of committing. Unless "the force" is strong with you (there are not many Jedi Knights on this planet), it is tough to avoid what you cannot see. I bent two rims on a bike once because I was following so close to the vehicle in front of me that I was unable to avoid the gaping pothole that fell out from under the car at me. It was an expensive lesson that I will not forget. Simply put, if you can't see, slow down. Rain and fog are examples of situations where less speed equals more reaction time. Curvy forest or mountain roads are fun, but because their sightlines are shorter, you need to reduce your speed to be prepared for surprises like deer, big rocks, and enormous filthy vehicles straddling the centerline.
6. Before proceeding through any intersection, check left, check front, check right, then check left again.
This is a fine example of managing your priorities. As you enter an intersection, whether turning or proceeding through, you need to know what your hazards are and where they can come from. The highest priority is to check your left. Why left? The left is the highest priority because that is the lane of traffic you first cross and therefore would be the first to impact you. After the left you continue to check the intersection in a clockwise pattern. So next is the front because the vehicle coming toward you is a threat if it turns left in front of you. It is worthwhile to note the bulk (77%) of two-vehicle motorcycle crashes occur from impacts coming from this direction. Then you check to the right. If slowing or turning you check behind you (we'll look at this more in habit #7) then back around to the left again. You check the left twice since in the time it takes to check all other directions the situation could have changed to the left.
7. Whenever you slow, first check your rearview mirror.
Too often, what is out of sight is out of mind. As you slow down for any turn or a stop, you need to be aware of what is happening behind you. This is part of your general awareness of what is happening in your surroundings on the road. A quick look into your rearview mirrors will give you an idea of what traffic is doing behind you. The habit to get into is to check your mirrors every five to seven seconds, and also any time you roll off the throttle. Combine that with gentle application of both brakes and rarely will a stop be anything more than routine. A good reminder for this is that it is a proven fact flying insects do not check their rearview mirrors and you see what happens to them on your face shield.
There is a big exception to this. When you have to do a quick or emergency stop your priority is in front of you, but once that is taken care of it is doubly important to check your backside in case the driver following you was caught off guard by your sudden stop. Some riders use a label maker to put a reminder on their speedometer to "check mirrors".
8. Keep a 2-4 second following distance.
Following too close to the vehicle in front of you is arguably one of the greatest sins committed by most riders on a regular basis. I find myself inching up on the bumper of the vehicle in front of me all the time. Usually it's only because I want to drive faster than the car in front of me allows, but I have paid the price both in money and nervous close calls because I gave myself little to no reaction time by following too closely.
When traveling on a highway, the minimum distance to keep between you and the vehicle in front of you is 2 seconds, but that is the bare minimum. A 2-second following distance is like buying the cheapest bullet -proof vest you can find: sure, it's protection, but if you really want to be safe, you'll upgrade. That upgrade would be to a 4-second following distance. Keep in mind these distances are needed on clear sunny days. At night or during inclement weather you need to increase your safety margin. You should maintain these cushions as best as possible including the time you find yourself riding in traffic with a group of motorcycles.
To figure your distance correctly pick a point on the road, like a sign or a seam in the pavement, watch the vehicle ahead of you pass it and count the seconds it takes you to reach that point. The number of seconds you count is your following distance.
If you have trouble with this and just want to estimate the distance in feet use this formula: at 70 mph you travel approximately 105 feet a second, so 2 seconds times 105 feet would be 210 feet. But remember, that is the bare minimum. More is always better.
9. Ride with a great attitude.
This is one of the best ways to enjoy riding more and to effect a change in the general public's sometime dim view of motorcycling. A bad attitude will be reflected in your riding and a preoccupation with whatever made you grumpy will only distract you from the job at hand: safely riding your motorcycle.
On anything other than wide open country roads, you have a choice while riding: ride with the flow of traffic, or fight it. There are often times when traffic is not moving at a speed you would choose. When this happens poor riders zig-zag through the slower traffic, tailgating, cutting people off and generally irritating everyone on the road, reinforcing the perception that all motorcyclists are daredevil speed demons with no respect for mom, apple pie or the law.
Option two is you can try to be a courteous rider demonstrating what a responsible person you are, "Look ma, I'm all growed up now." It is my opinion that nothing harms the image of motorcycling more than a rider aggressively weaving through traffic on a motorcycle. It may impress 14-year-old boys being shuttled to little league, but they don't vote or call their elected representatives, although their parents sometimes do.
10. Practice.
The very best time to practice these habits is every time you go out for a ride. Spend at least a few minutes every ride concentrating on each of these habits and soon they will become second nature to you. Don't focus so hard on practicing that you lose sight of the job at hand. Instead integrate practice into your normal riding routine.
taken from Singapore Bike Forum
MotoGP 2007 Championship in Laguna Seca, USA
This time, it was in Laguna Seca, USA. I like this track because it has an 'unique' turn. Some called it the 'cockscrew'. Rossi didn't get on podium this time. It was won by Stoner. Vermeulen and Melandri took second and third.
This is the result:
source from MotoGP.com
This is the result:
source from MotoGP.com
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